A shot of Main Bazar in Pahar Ganj.

Upon arrival into Delhi- you can expect to be quite taken back. The city is a beautiful, bustling metropolis with it's own smell that only the locals could love. Landing at Delhi's international airport is highly deceiving as it will have you believe that you have landed in a civilised city. Do not be fooled by it's posh interior that was completely updated from it's dilapidated form to accommodate the many foreign visitors for the 2010 Commonwealth games. As soon as you clear customs and step outside the airport the mayhem begins. Driver upon driver. Porter upon porter. All of them fighting for your business. It is quite the eye opener for anyone that hasn't travelled a country like India before. 

If you are heading into the city- and haven't pre booked transport- the best option is the pre paid taxi stand. You have to be pushy as the concept of an orderly line does not exist throughout India. 
Emily and I always stay in an area called Pahar Ganj. It has a street called Main Bazzar and any taxi driver will know how to get there. Pahar Ganj is filled with hotels, cafes, stalls, markets, bars, restaurants and street food. and it is very cheap! Including hotels, which offer a variety of places from completely derelict to absolute luxury (luxury for us is a big bed, small t.v. and air con. Sometimes a shower head that is not directly over the toilet is an added bonus). 

Once settled into your hotel, it is best to just go for a wander and explore! The city has lots of hidden alleyways with amazing chai cafes and chai wallahs (vendors on the side of the street operating from a cart on wheels). Take a hotel card with you so you can 'safely' get lost. Delhihas many great temples and sites to see. You can talk with an auto rickshaw driver about a price on taking you to some of these places of interest. Remember that they might offer you a half day and a full day rate but you must haggle!

Delhi is India's second biggest city and has connections to all over India. Do not be fooled by dodgy travel agents trying to plan your India trip for you. If they approach you on the street it is best to say no. Your hotel will most likely be able to book tickets for you or will know of a god travel agent nearby. 

Two playful puppies that we discovered in an alleyway in Delhi.


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Budget travel advice from the lousiest beatniks that wander on this land.